Tips for Colonies

Tips for Building Colonies

We hope that you are inspired to build your own outdoor habitat. Even if you use it seasonally, your birds will enjoy the opportunity to spread their wings. We have put together a list of building tips, that may help you sort through, the endless options that are available.

Frame Options: As you can see by the photo’s, we use carport frames for our colonies. Beware of cheap aluminum or steel models. Carport frames are designed to hold tarps. Not 300 lbs of wire, steel roofing panels and the additional weight of perches! We use the carport frames that are sold at Costco. They cost less than $200. each. These frames were designed and engineered, to hold a snow load. The Costco steel frames, are sturdy and will not buckle from the weight of the aviary wire. Inferior frames cost between $100.-$150. and in our opinion, not worth the risk. The standard carport frame is 10’ T x 10’ W x 20 L. If you want to build a larger flight, just add another frame, or two. Price, quality and flexibility are most important to us. Choose a sturdy frame, they are worth it.

Bigger is better, when it comes to parrot enclosures but, it is not always practical. We dreamed of huge 100’ habitats with 30 foot side walls, the birds would love it. But, the challenges of managing colonies that size, are enormous. There is dead unused space in tall enclosures. Similar to arranging a tall bird cage. If you arrange perches in line, on different levels, the bird poops from the top perch and it lands on a lower perch. Which equals extra work for you. The logistics to hang the perches! Are you going to climb a 30’ ladder every time a perch needs replacing? How about 15 years from now? You would need a cherry picker [power ladder] for maintenance.

How would you catch an uncooperative, sick bird, if it is on a perch 30’ over your head ? They don’t make nets with handles that long. Even if they did, it would be nearly impossible to maneuver through the maze of branches. You would need binoculars to monitor the subtle body changes of an ill bird!

The challenges of maintaining an enormous habitat were not realistic for us.

Bio Domes are a popular choice but, expensive. They are a series of steel triangle frames, filled with chain link or wire. The pattern of triangles, connectors, wire or chain link is visual chaos. Do you want your view of the birds habitat, disrupted by a maze of patterns? Or, do you want an unobstructed view of the space?

Another consideration is, the placement of the service doors. Zoological Parks, position service doors on the back of the exhibit to provide an unobstructed view of the habitat. It may be less convenient, to place a door on the end or back of your colony but, how many times each day will you access the habitat? We wanted a clear view of the action!

Zoological Parks, utilize bottom feeders to help maintain the flora and fauna. You will see peacocks, pheasants or other birds roaming the exhibit. They pick up food that would have, otherwise be wasted.

Flooring Options:

Sand] Is dangerous for most parrots, it is the equivalent of grit. The birds could drop wet food, like a banana, pick it up and ingest the sand.

Grass] Difficult to clean and maintain. Food drops between the blades of grass and spoils in the warm weather. How are you going to cut the grass if birds are in the habitat?

Sawdust] Blows away in the wind. It is a mess. Also, it is easy for the birds to ingest.

Cement] Too dangerous! One fall, at the right angle and the breast bone opens up like a fillet. Our birds fall, more than you would expect. Even the fully flighted birds fall! Cement is also, difficult to clean.

Wood Chips] We use expensive, playground chips. They are kiln dried mill ends, run thru a chipper. We do not use

the free tree topping chips, that are available from tree services. We have concerns, they may contain pesticide residue.

Upper Left: Stair step colony style.

Middle: Amazon and Mini Macaw Colony configuration. The “condo’s” off the back can be used to isolate an injured bird or confine an aggressive bird. They can be made from dog run panels.

Lower Left: The Ducorp Goffin Colony with a pass thru.

We have an abundance of Alder tree’s on our property, that make great perches. We tried, in the beginning to, wedge perches into corners and between the wire. But, we soon found that, hanging the perches with chains worked better. The birds can chew the ends of the logs, without dropping the branch. Which would be dangerous to birds foraging below.

We also stand some logs vertically. The birds like to climb them like a tree. Photo below also partially, shows bird building.

The #1 cause of aggression at our Sanctuary is,

too few perches in the Colony! If you think that you

have enough, add more. We have seen this in every colony

we have! With every species.

Left Top: This is the L shaped colony that we have for the Moluccan’s and Galerita’s. The triangle is a safety pass thru that can also be used for temporary holding.

Lower Left: The back to back shape we use.

Above: This is the shape of our Macaw colony. We fit the frame around two birch tree stumps.

Left: This is the shape we used for our Umbrella colony. The left end is a pass thru.

Here are the general instructions for building a colony using the Costco carport frames. The frames are 10’ wide x 20’ long. Parts: 120’ roll of 6’ tall wire choose your gauge based on species. 50 stainless steel hose clamps large enough to fit the diameter of the frame poles. The diameter varies based on the model year of your frame. 1 lb of 1/2” stainless steel “hog rings” available from farm supply stores. Schedule 40 1” pvc pipe and fittings for door and frame.

Far Left: Step 1 assemble the roof section of the carport frame.

Step 2] Unroll 2, 21’ lengths of wire and attach it to the roof frame using hose clamps. Leave 6” of overlap on each end. Bend the excess over the triangle ends. I use a rubber mallet.

Left: Step 3] Unroll enough wire to cut 2 triangle patterns. The cut will be a stair step pattern. Leave an excess of at least 6”. Attach the cut triangles to frame ends using hose clamps. Tack the roof and triangle overlap down using tightened hog rings.

Step 4] Attach carport legs one side at a time. For added security we bury the leg poles into the ground 1’ to 1 1/2’ deep and level frame and legs.

Step 5] Wrap entire frame with wire attach using hose clamps. Leave an opening for the access door. We bury the side wire 6” for a digging barrier. We dig a trench before wrapping sides with wire, then backfill. Attach the ends to the triangles using hog rings.

Step 6 : Configure door and frame using Schedule 40 1” PVC pipe and fittings. Elbows and T’s. We prefer, the 3 section door that is outlined at the top of this page. It is very sturdy and easy to configure. Be sure to make the door and frame wide enough to fit a wheelbarrow for servicing the colony. Attach the door to it’s frame with sturdy hinges, no pin. Attach to carport frame with hose clamps. Install latch of your choice. Leave an escape hole for your fingers to reach the latch if you close the door behind you.

Another door option is the pre-fabricated steel mesh security door. I comes pre-framed and is easy to attach to the wire with hose clamps. The security door is much heavier then the pvc version. To stabilize it, you can drive a steel rebar rod into the ground on each side of the door frame. Attach the frame, wire and rebar together with a hose clamp.

Roof Panels are riveted together while on the ground. It is easier for us to handle. We lean the riveted panels length wise—against the side wall of the flight. It takes 2 people to lift and slide the panels, up and over the roof into position. We drill holes and tack the panels to the roof frame with heavy gauge wire.